Friday, August 31, 2018

Vietnam: What Makes it Unique


Vietnam: What Makes it Unique

Fast rising on the list of exotic (and slowly, popular) tourist destinations is the small nation of Vietnam. If done right, this country in the easternmost corner of the Indochina peninsula has a lot to offer to the discerning traveller. It is both historically interesting and naturally rich, so take your pick and explore accordingly.

Map of Vietnam

Vietnam can be clubbed with neighbouring countries, such as Laos or Thailand, and we chose to explore Vietnam and Cambodia together, in a span of 10 fun, luxurious days. In Vietnam we explored two cities - its largest and most populous city - Ho Chi Minh City, and the capital- Hanoi. We travelled mostly via their very comfortable cabs, popular among tourists in the region, and stayed in the city centre in order to be able to traverse the labyrinth of streets containing night markets, pub hubs and roadside restaurants at night.  


Our first stop was Ho Chi Minh City, which we reached via a 6 hour bus journey from Cambodia’s capital, Phnom Penh. HCMC, Vietnam’s most populous city.  The city’s many beautiful buildings and boulevards- a relic of its French colonial past, are a treat to the eyes. Many of the city’s tourist attractions are within walking distance of one another, so if you’re not close to the city centre, take a cab to it and walk  around to see the rest of it. Some of the important sites in the city centre include the Reunification Palace, a very pretty building which hosts the Post Office, and the Opera House, and within walking distance- the grand vision of the Notre Dame Cathedral.
Ho Chi Min Post Office





The city is also home to many museums, the Ho Chi Minh City Museum, the Museum of Vietnamese History and so on. If you’re the type to go museum hopping to understand the feel of a place’s history and culture, you’ll find enough museums here to keep you occupied for a day or two.


When in HCMC, make sure to check out Ben Thanh Market (not too far off from the city centre). A good place to experience the local flavour- of street food, souvenirs and the shopping culture (involving lots and lots of haggling- think Sarojini Nagar).

Some local delicacies that you must try, if you’re a foodie (and preferably a non vegetarian) include mem Cuon or salad rolls (available literally everywhere), the various types and flavours of pho, canh and egg coffee.

Cu Chi Tunnels
Different traps
Exploring one of the tunnels



On our second day, we drove to the Cu Chi District of HCMC, about a one hour drive from the main city, for a tour of the Cu Chi tunnels.  The tunnels are now a well curated display of an immense network of underground tunnels ,preserved from the Vietnam war. An enthusiastic (and free) guide is part of the deal when you purchase tickets for a tour of the tunnels. The experience is really remarkable, with some on ground experiences, including a brief entry into the tunnels. Also served towards the end of the tour in an open tent are some traditional vietnamese tea and snacks, always an exciting proposition.

Turtle Tower, Hanoi

A quick flight to Vietnam’s capital, Hanoi, and we found ourselves once more, in maze like streets, full of roadside restaurants and loud celebrations and chantings of “Vietnam, Vietnam!” (They had just qualified for the semis in the Asian Games’ Football, and the Vietnamese, I was assured by a local, know how to celebrate a win.)
A fabulously exciting part of our trip was to begin the next day, an absolute must do- a two day cruise along the Halong Bay.
Vietnam Halong Bay Shipping Vietnam Vietna

Halong Bay

We were, at first, surprised to find that our ship was not straight out of Dil Dhadakne Do, or even Humraaz, but quickly acclimated to the much quieter, more private and more personal experience of our cruise. If you’re a foodie, this cruise is worth every penny (and more) for the variety of sea food alone. An average of 10-15 mains per meal, and all of them local delicacies.




From shrimp, to oysters, to pork and squid, there was exotic seafood as far as the eye could see. There was moreover, never a boring moment- and not nearly enough time to simply laze about on the deck and gaze at the stunning view of the fold mountains all around.



A nearly spiritual experience, this trip seemed to distance us from all our worldly concerns, as we stopped on beaches, trekked up mountains, explored caves, went kayaking and swimming in the bay. A definite plus (although it may not seem so while you’re on your smart phone) was the chance to disconnect from the world, with no network or wifi on board.


And so I leave you, with gorgeous daydreams of a holiday simultaneously calming and exciting. What are you waiting for? Get packing!

--Meenakshi Kumar
Our esteemed client

Thursday, August 30, 2018

Of the Long and Windings - Double Root Bridge Trek in Cherrapunji





The mystical far northeastern corner of the country where not many wander to had allured me for long. The North East of India is the land of fewer honking horns, lush green mountains, a relaxed pace of life and most of all the path less treaded by tourists. I pen my thoughts down with a certain irony. As tempting as it is to keep these less discovered valleys a well-kept secret, to not share my finds from this ten day sojourn would be a disservice to the most underrated natural wonders of India- the double living root bridges.

I woke up before sunrise, that morning in Shillong. I left for Cherapunjee at 6.30 in the cab I had booked for the day. The drive was mesmerizing to say the least. Through the two hour drive my eyes fought between the yearning to take a nap and to soak in the views. There is a reason this state is called Meghalaya (House of clouds). You drive through clouds the entire time!! I started my trek around 8.30 and would advise anyone doing the trek to also do the same. It takes care of two things, one, the weather is quite agreeable early in the morning while much more humid later. Second, one appreciates the Bliss of Solitude one reads and hears so often about.



Driving through clouds en route to Cherrapunji




There are guides at the start of the trek who offer their services for Rs.600. I didn’t take one and I would recommend the same to everyone else. The trek is tough because of the number of steps and the regular undulating slopes one encounters. However, there are no forested areas and so, if you pay attention, there is very little scope of getting lost. There are a couple of turns which aren’t marked but any local will guide you if asked.

Piggy Back Women Girls Hiker Backpacker Tr


                                     There is a well-defined path for most of the trek

The first stretch is the most painful. It is 3000 steps straight down and the steps are quite narrow. It really takes a toll on your knees. The prospect of climbing the 3000 stairs on my way back was not a comforting thought. Once you reach the valley, the rewards make up for the effort. On the right are two single root bridges. I walked to them first as they were quite close. The stream running below has crystal clear water. I washed my face in the stream and it took away all the tiredness of the walk downhill. I retraced my steps and walked the other way to go to the double root bridges. The walk was significantly longer this time. On way I found, two hanging bridges. To walk on those shaky bridges with the river running far below is quite an experience in itself.





Crystal clear water running in the river

The first glimpse of the final destination is as though out of a Narnia movie. I was transfixed to the spot for a good while. Pictures really cannot do justice to that quiet little corner. And this is before I even had a chance to look at the bridges itself!




                



                   The kind of place one sees in movies and wonders where this is


Once I reached the bridges, I kicked off my shoes and dipped my feet in water and just stayed there. I cannot explain how peaceful it is. That place just has to be felt. The sound of animals from the jungles, the rush of water all added to the charm. The advantage of starting so early was that I was the only person there. I had the entire place to myself. I sat there for over an hour. It was the most serene experience I have had.

The living room bridges are probably one of the most fascinating collaboration between man and nature. The bridges themselves are said to be over 500 years old. The roots have been trained by the Khasi tribes to grow such that they form a bridge on top of the stream. A new root bridge takes about 15 years to get strong enough to support the weight of humans. They only get stronger with time. They are more stable than wooden bridges in this area which see an incredible amount of rainfall.


There is a small bamboo shop there and the lady makes nice Maggi. It was much needed before I started the dreaded walk back a time when most tourists were walking to the bridges. There is a feeling of smugness for being the first one there and having the place all to yourself. Three groups stopped me and asked me if they were almost there!

The worst part is the climb back up. I kept telling myself ten steps, another ten steps and got through. I made it a point not to stop in the middle. It gets difficult to start once you take a break. Before the start of the trek, one of the guides had mentioned that it typically take 5-6 hours to do the trek down and up, however if it can be done in just under 4 hours as well. The pace of the trip is more of a personal call.



Maybe the serenity of the place is protected by the difficulty of the trek. It ensures that the place isn’t teeming with tourists. The travesty of the situation is out inclination to travel far and wide, when most of what we look for lies in the secluded area of our country.


-        Venkatesh Kumar

         Senior Executive and an Avid traveller









Tuesday, August 28, 2018

Killing Fields, Phnom penh, Cambodia

Killing Fields, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

The Angkor Wat Temple Complex

Thousand Shivling waterfall, siem Reap, Cambodia

Angkor Wat Temple: The Crown Jewel of Cambodia



Angkor Wat Temple: The Crown Jewel of Cambodia

Angkor Wat, Cambodia's famous UNESCO World Heritage Site, is breathtaking and thrilling to explore. The temple ruins have a way of igniting the inner archaeologist in all of us. You won't soon forget wandering the sprawling, carved ruins of a once-great civilization!




The Location of Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat is located roughly five miles north of the modern Cambodian city of Siem Reap, which has a population of more than 200,000 people.
However, when it was built, it served as the capital of the Khmer empire, which ruled the region at the time. The word “Angkor” means “capital city” in the Khmer language, while the word “Wat” means “temple.”
The primary Angkor Wat site is spread over 402 acres, but Khmer ruins are scattered far across Cambodia. New sites are discovered beneath the jungle foliage each year.

How to Get to Angkor Wat
To get to Angkor Wat, you'll need to arrive in Siem Reap, find accommodation, and get an early start on the ruins the following day.
The main Angkor Wat site is close enough to Siem Reap to reach by bicycle. For those less excited about cycling in Cambodia's sticky heat, catch a tuk tuk  or hire a knowledgeable driver for the day to help you between temples.

Flying to Angkor Wat
Siem Reap International Airport (airport code: REP) is connected to South Korea, China, and major hubs throughout Southeast Asia, including Bangkok. The airport is located around 4.3 miles from the center of Siem Reap. Upscale hotels offer free airport shuttles, or you can take a fixed-rate taxi for around US $7.




Angkor Wat Entrance fees
With so many remote temples away from the main tourist site and ruins to see, you'll most likely want at least a three-day pass to fully appreciate the monument without rushing around too much.
The entrance fees for Angkor Wat increased dramatically in 2017. The ticketing counters now accept major credit cards other than American Express.
·        One-day pass: US $37
·        Three-day pass: US $62
·        Seven-day pass: US $72
You should dress conservatively when purchasing your ticket; cover shoulders and knees. Whatever you do, don't lose your pass! The penalties for not being able to show it when asked are steep.

Ten Magnificent Angkor Wat Temples

Situated between the Tonle Sap lake and the Kulen Mountains in Cambodia, Angkor contains the magnificent remains of several capitals of the Khmer Empire. Angkor served as the seat of the Khmer Empire, which flourished from approximately the 9th to 15th centuries. The hundreds of temples surviving today are but the sacred skeleton of the vast political, religious and social center of the ancient empire.




1. Ta Keo
Dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva, Ta Keo was built as the state temple of Jayavarman V, son of Rajendravarman, who had built the Pre Rup temple. Jayavarman V was 10 years old when he succeeded his father, in 968 AD. When he was aged 17, he began the construction of his own state temple, whose modern name is Ta Keo.




2. Banteay Kdei
Little is known about this mysterious temple. It is presumed that Banteay Kdei was a Buddhist monastery as hundreds of Buddha statues have been excavated from the site. 




3. Pre Rup
With its three central spires, Pre Rup looks a bit like a mini Angkor Wat. Pre Rup was built as the state temple of king Rajendravarman in 961 and was dedicated to Shiva. It was the second temple built after the capital was returned to Angkor from Koh Ker after a period of political upheaval.

4. Preah Kahn
The temple of Preah Kahn is one of the largest complexes at Angkor. Like the nearby Ta Prohm temple, Preah Khan has been left largely unrestored, with numerous trees growing among the ruins. Preah Khan was built by king Jayavarman VII and probably served as his temporary residence while Angkor Thom was being built.

5. Phnom Bakheng
Dedicated to Shiva, Phnom Bakheng is a Hindu temple in the form of a temple mountain. It was constructed at the end of the 9th century, more than two centuries before Angkor Wat , during the reign of King Yasovarman. Located on top of a hill, the temple is a very popular tourist spot for the magnificent sunset views.




6. Banteay Srei
Located far (about 32 km/20 miles) from the main group of temples, Banteay Srei is one of the smallest sites at Angkor. Due to its beautiful carvings however it is extremely popular with tourists and considered a jewel of Khmer art.




7. Angkor Thom
The last great capital of the Khmer empire, Angkor Thom (literally “Great City”) took monumental to a whole new level. It was built in part as a reaction to the surprise sacking of Angkor by the Chams. The most fascinating way to enter Angkor Thom is through the south gate. The causeway here is flanked by 54 gods and 54 demons depicting parts of the popular Hindu legend “The Churning of the Ocean of Milk”.




8. Ta Prohm
It  is undoubtedly the most atmospheric and photogenic ruin at Angkor, with trees growing out of the ruins. Built from 1186, Ta Prohm was a Buddhist temple dedicated to the mother of Jayavarman VII.
It is one of the few temples in Angkor where an inscription provides information about the temple’s inhabitants.




9. Bayon temple
 The Bayon temple features a sea of over 200 massive stone faces looking in all direction.
The curious smiling faces, thought by many to be a portrait of king Jayavarman VII himself or a combination of him and Buddha, are an instantly recognizable image of Angkor.
Built in the 12th century by King Jayavarman VII as part of a massive expansion of his capital Angkor Thom, the Bayon is built at the exact center of the royal city. 

10. Angkor Wat Temple
 Angkor Wat (meaning “City Temple”) is the most magnificent and largest of all Angkor temples. The structure occupies and enormous site of nearly 200 hectares (494 acres). 
Built under the reign of king Suryavarman II in the first half of the 12 century, Angkor Wat is the pinnacle of Khmer architecture. The famous bas-reliefs encircling the temple on the first level depict Hindu epics.

In the late 13th century, Angkor Wat gradually moved from a Hindu temple to a Theravada Buddhist one. Unlike other temples at Angkor which were abandoned after the fall of the Khmer empire in the 15th century, Angkor Wat remained a Buddhist shrine.


General Information: Angkor Wat Temple

·     Angkor Wat is the primary reason that more than 50% of international tourists visit Cambodia each year. Cambodians are proud of their ancient monument, so proud that they put it on the Cambodian flag in 1850. Images from Angkor Wat also appear on many denominations of the riel (Cambodia's currency).
  • The Angkor ruins stretch over more than 248 square miles (400 square kilometers). Many visitors mistaken the size of Angkor and visit only a few of the most visited temples.
  • Angkor Wat is unusually oriented to the west, a direction typically associated with death in Hindu culture. Archaeologists and scholars disagree as to why the ancient builders chose to deviate from the norm (pointing structures east) at the time.
  • Bas-reliefs at Angkor Wat read counterclockwise, another indication that the temple is associated with funeral rituals.
  • Also unusual for the time of construction, Angkor Wat was dedicated to Vishnu, a Hindu deity, rather than the current king.
  • The original outer wall at Angkor Wat once enclosed the temple proper, city, and royal palace, occupying a space of 203 acres (820,000 square meters). Nothing remains of the wall today.
  • Many visitors do not realize that many surfaces of the Angkor temples were once painted. Today, only small traces of the paint remain on just a few temples.
History
  • Constructed in the early 12th century (between 1113 and 1150), Angkor Wat is considered to be the largest religious monument in the world.
  • The sandstone used to construct Cambodia's national monument, at least 5 million tons worth, had to be carried from a quarry 40 Km away. Cambodians are pretty tiny people, so try to imagine them carrying bricks weighing up to 1,500 kilograms each from a quarry almost 40 kilometres from the site and it just doesn’t add up. The workers had to get creative, which is why it’s thought that canals were used to move the sandstone up the river. The entire city of Angkor used more stone than all the Egyptian pyramids combined, and took over an area larger than modern-day Paris. Angkor is thought to have taken 35 years, 3,00,000 workers and 6,000 elephants.
  • Angkor Wat was shifted from Hindu to Buddhist use sometime around the late 13th century. The temple is still used by Buddhists as a place of worship today.
  • One of the first Westerners to see Angkor Wat was Antonio da Madalena, a Portuguese monk, who visited in 1586. Long before Europeans arrived, a Chinese emissary named Zhou Daguan lived in Angkor for one year between 1296 and 1297; he created a written account of his experience there sometime before 1312. Zhou Daguan's book, the only account of 13th-century Angkor, was translated into English by Peter Harris in the book A Record of Cambodia.
  • Henri Mouhot, a French explorer, helped bring Angkor Wat to fame in the West by publishing an account of his visit in the mid-19th century. His book is Travels in Siam, Cambodia, Laos, and Annam.
  • Angkor Wat was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992. The site suffered from decades of unregulated tourism and looting; many ancient statues have been decapitated and their heads sold to private collectors. An international collaborative effort has helped to slowly restore sites and prevent further collapse of unstable structures.
  • Sokimex, a private company founded by an ethnic Vietnamese-Cambodian businessman, has rented Angkor Wat from Cambodia since 1990 and manages tourism there for profit. Sokimex also has a petroleum division, manages hotels, and runs Sarika Air Services.
  • Most of the money to restore Angkor Wat comes from foreign aid. Only an estimated 28% of ticket sales goes back into the temples. In 2000 Hollywood rolled into town with Angelina Jolie to film Lara Croft: Tomb Raider, putting the lost city of Angkor firmly on the map, injecting tens of thousands of much-needed dollars into the local economy. One lucky baby also won the lottery when Angelina Jolie adopted the seven-month-old after visiting an orphanage.
  • The Angkor temple Ta Prohm—famous for the large vines that strangle the ruins—was used as the set for the hit movie Tomb Raider. Paramount was charged US $10,000 per day for seven days to film there. Unfortunately, some of the iconic trees growing through the ruins at Ta Prohm have had to be removed to preserve the temple from further collapse.