The
mystical far northeastern corner of the country where not many wander to had
allured me for long. The North East of India is the land of fewer honking
horns, lush green mountains, a relaxed pace of life and most of all the path
less treaded by tourists. I pen my thoughts down with a certain irony. As
tempting as it is to keep these less discovered valleys a well-kept secret, to
not share my finds from this ten day sojourn would be a disservice to the most
underrated natural wonders of India- the double living root bridges.
I woke up
before sunrise, that morning in Shillong. I left for Cherapunjee at 6.30 in the
cab I had booked for the day. The drive was mesmerizing to say the least.
Through the two hour drive my eyes fought between the yearning to take a nap
and to soak in the views. There is a reason this state is called Meghalaya
(House of clouds). You drive through clouds the entire time!! I started my trek
around 8.30 and would advise anyone doing the trek to also do the same. It
takes care of two things, one, the weather is quite agreeable early in the
morning while much more humid later. Second, one appreciates the Bliss of
Solitude one reads and hears so often about.
Driving through clouds en route to Cherrapunji
There are
guides at the start of the trek who offer their services for Rs.600. I didn’t
take one and I would recommend the same to everyone else. The trek is tough
because of the number of steps and the regular undulating slopes one
encounters. However, there are no forested areas and so, if you pay attention,
there is very little scope of getting lost. There are a couple of turns which
aren’t marked but any local will guide you if asked.
The first
stretch is the most painful. It is 3000 steps straight down and the steps are
quite narrow. It really takes a toll on your knees. The prospect of climbing
the 3000 stairs on my way back was not a comforting thought. Once you reach the
valley, the rewards make up for the effort. On the right are two single root
bridges. I walked to them first as they were quite close. The stream running
below has crystal clear water. I washed my face in the stream and it took away
all the tiredness of the walk downhill. I retraced my steps and walked the
other way to go to the double root bridges. The walk was significantly longer
this time. On way I found, two hanging bridges. To walk on those shaky bridges
with the river running far below is quite an experience in itself.
Crystal
clear water running in the river
The
first glimpse of the final destination is as though out of a Narnia movie. I
was transfixed to the spot for a good while. Pictures really cannot do justice
to that quiet little corner. And this is before I even had a chance to look at
the bridges itself!
Once I
reached the bridges, I kicked off my shoes and dipped my feet in water and just
stayed there. I cannot explain how peaceful it is. That place just has to be
felt. The sound of animals from the jungles, the rush of water all added to the
charm. The advantage of starting so early was that I was the only person there.
I had the entire place to myself. I sat there for over an hour. It was the most
serene experience I have had.
The living
room bridges are probably one of the most fascinating collaboration between man
and nature. The bridges themselves are said to be over 500 years old. The roots
have been trained by the Khasi tribes to grow such that they form a bridge on
top of the stream. A new root bridge takes about 15 years to get strong enough
to support the weight of humans. They only get stronger with time. They are
more stable than wooden bridges in this area which see an incredible amount of
rainfall.
There is a
small bamboo shop there and the lady makes nice Maggi. It was much needed
before I started the dreaded walk back a time when most tourists were walking
to the bridges. There is a feeling of smugness for being the first one there
and having the place all to yourself. Three groups stopped me and asked me if
they were almost there!
The
worst part is the climb back up. I kept telling myself ten steps, another ten
steps and got through. I made it a point not to stop in the middle. It gets
difficult to start once you take a break. Before the start of the trek, one of
the guides had mentioned that it typically take 5-6 hours to do the trek down
and up, however if it can be done in just under 4 hours as well. The pace of
the trip is more of a personal call.
Maybe
the serenity of the place is protected by the difficulty of the trek. It
ensures that the place isn’t teeming with tourists. The travesty of the
situation is out inclination to travel far and wide, when most of what we look
for lies in the secluded area of our country.
- Venkatesh Kumar
Senior Executive and an Avid traveller
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